Post 109: Vacation away from our vacation

Fellow adventurers,

Our weekend in Montevideo was pleasant and relaxing, aside from the intense heat.  We spent it exploring much of Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo’s old city.  We attempted to go in or tour many buildings, including the Teatro Solis and Palacio Salvo (once S.A’s tallest building) but being the weekend, surprisingly most everything is closed.  We had also wanted to go out in the evening to see some Carnaval festivities we heard were going on, but were worried about walking around at night even though Uruguay has a reputation as being one of the safest in S.A.  On Monday we were looking forward to escaping the city and traveling along the coast to take in some cooler breezes, so we headed to the bus station and set off.

As our bus approached La Pedrera, each campground we passed was filled to the max with tents.  They even lined the roadside. We learned after inquiring that most were full, and the only sites available were $50 dollars.  The reason for this was La Pedrera was hosting Carnaval festivities in the evening.  We decided to head out of town to look for someplace private we could set up, and ended up settling deep into some nearby woods of eucalyptus trees where the grass was tall and wet.

As the sun began to set, we headed back into town just as the vendors had finished setting up their grills and the parades of festive people, either dressed in various costumes, wearing masks or bodies painted, began to crowd in. The streets of sand were muddy and puddled from the scattered rains throughout the day.  We could not walk down it without being sprayed by silly string or white foam shot from aerosol cans that were being vended everywhere. Targets were indiscriminate though usually relegated for young woman. From the side of the street, kids threw water balloons and some people would randomly dump buckets of water on others. Luckily we made it through what was just the beginning of a chaotic night for many, and went over the beach where we sat for awhile.  It’s interesting to think some place so small and usually quiet turns into an absolute night of debauchery once a year, but it is Carnaval. Walking back, Gavin and I avoided the busiest of the crowded street by taking a side street. We ate a mediocre sausage sandwich and drank a beer while we watched the wild people party on the street before stumbling through the forest, in search of our tent.

We were rather glad we didn’t camp in town because their probably wouldn’t have been any sleeping, with the amount of noise and partying happening all throughout the night.  The following morning the streets were trashed and muddier than ever. People slept just about everywhere; in their cars, on cardboard boxes, or even on the side of the busy main road wrapped in a blanket. We were ready to leave and head for the quieter communities along the coast. After about 20 minutes of walking with our thumbs out on the only road that takes you North, we were picked up by a friendly, young Argentine; Gustavo. Our first attempt had proven successful and saved us 20+ miles of walking along the long road that stretched mostly across vast green acres of cow and horse pastures, sparsely shaded by scattered palms. The only road that connects you to the orange, sandy streets which lead into the many tiny, rural communities on the coast.

Gustavo dropped at the entrance of Cabo Polonia, a small hippy community of 72 inhabitants with no roads, no running water or electricity and where we had planned to camp one night. After learning there isn’t a campground, we decided to skip paying the 170 Pesos (about $8.50) for the ride in, and head further north. We caught a bus for about $4.00 that would take us to the beautiful coastline of Punto Del Diablo, where there’s plenty of campgrounds. We settled at a campground only about 10 minutes walk from the beach under pine trees and more screeching parrots before we explored the bohemian town with an eclectic mix of colorful cottages that gives it it’s rustic charm.

Wednesday was spent at the beach.  The waves were large, strong and constant which made for fun swimming but even better boogie boarding if I only had one. Then we shared a Caipirinha, the national drink of Brazil made with sugar cane rum, sugar and muddled lime served over ice.  It was delicious and refreshing, but more than one would have had me sleeping on the beach only to wake up looking like a lobster, so we drank it at the beach bar while people watching. Almost all of the woman on the beach, both young and old, wear bikini thongs or the like. While not accustomed to being surrounded to by so many practically bare bottoms, we weren’t sure how we particularly felt about seeing prepubescent girls as young as 10 walking around with their butts out. While socially acceptable here, it’s very taboo for us as North Americans to see, unless maybe you’re in Miami. Overall, I loved how lawless the beaches are here unlike the ones at home, at least in my home state of New Jersey. Everyone was harmonious, minding their own and enjoying themselves.  Traveling is beginning to make me feel just how little freedom we actually have in America.

As the sun began to lower, we took a walk on the sandy coastal trails that go over sand dunes and run alongside flattened boulders.  It led us to Playa Grande, an expansive, secluded beach (hence the name) which runs inland.  We also explored the wooded area behind where we will be camping the next few days beginning tomorrow.  The remainder of our time here will be spent camping, exploring Fortaleza Santa Teresa, and just going to the beach before heading back to Montevideo for one night. I hope the pleasant warm weather will hold out for our time here.  We can’t believe we only have 3 weeks left of our journey and we’re doing our best to save money in order to make it home. Our cash supply is running quite low. After Igauzu Falls next week, we’ll be on a journey through Brazil and Guyana not so much to see sights (unless they’re free), but to make our flight home.

June y Gavin