Post 106: Buenos Aires pt. 2

'Fellow adventurers,

Yearning to explore the antique shops and boutiques around San Telmo, I set out yesterday leaving Gavin behind for a lackadaisical day to himself. The weather had only slightly cooled, and I wondered some streets I had not yet explored.  They led me to nearby park, where a cafe was hosting some tango, and I luckily caught the end of it.  There were some vendors selling mostly handicrafts, antiques and jewelry in the park as well, and it wasn't long before I was chatted up by a local jeweler, wishing to "accompany me to tango lessons, on my return to Buenos Aires".  Many boutiques and antique shops later, I found myself in the San Telmo mercado picking up ingredients to make dinner.  By this time the vendors recognized me, and happily greeted me as I walked by their stalls.

Today Gavin and I ventured out to La Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires first public cemetery set on 14 acres and founded in 1822.  It is like a city within itself, filled with mausoleums of many architectural styles for the dead, including Eva Peron and many other notable characters of Argentina's elite past.  The cemetery is also filled with old dirty cats who seem to take up residence full time there.

As we wondered, I stopped and noticed a unique tomb done in a neogothic style, unlike the rest.  On it was a large statue of a girl in a long gown with her hand resting on her dogs head next to her.  There was also a plaque, with what looked to be a poem in Italian.  I overheard the story of the tomb from a tour guide, and after further researched learned that she had died in 1970, at the age of 26, while honeymooning in Austria by an avalanche that had struck her hotel.  The poem translates to:

To my Daughter

Only I ask myself why
You left and left my heart destroyed
That wanted only you, why?
Why? Only destiny knows the reason, and I ask myself why?

Because we can’t be without you, why?
You were so beautiful that invidious nature destroyed you. Why?
I only ask myself why, if God exists, does he take away that which is His name.
Because He destroys us and leaves us to an eternity of sadness!

Why? I believe in fate and not in you. Why?
Because I only know that I always dream with you, why is that?
For all the love my heart feels for you.
Why? Why?

Your Papá

After some further research of tombs we visited, I learned that each one has it's own interesting story,  as well as some mysterious urban legends which can be easily read about here; which I'd suggest you should if you're into that sort of thing.

On Sundays, San Telmo has a outdoor street market.  We didn't anticipate the sheer scale of it.  Man blocks are lined with people selling antiques (of course!) artwork, handicrafts, goods, baked goods, clothes etc, etc.  There's also live tango, which we thoroughly enjoyed watching the couples sensually move in synchronization with one another to the sound of an accordion and stringed instruments.  I couldn't help but stop to listen to musicians playing tango music all the while a young porteno let his deep, strong voice empower the him with it.  I wish there was a way to describe the feeling you get from the sounds and the sight.  Romantic, sensual, perhaps envious.  The want to learn to the tango the that seeps into the streets, and surround yourself with it.  When would the novelty of it be lost, I wonder?

With little anticipation, we leave the fair winds city tomorrow for an early 5 hour boat ride across el rio del la plata, or the river plate, to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay.  We will be camping there for two days.  Although I'm sure Colonia will be delightful, I was really beginning to feel comfortable in our little apartment.  It's nice to take care as if a place were your own home, and it never crossed my mind I'd slightly miss cleaning.  I also have gotten quite acquainted with the neighborhood.  Oh Buenos Aires, how you call my name.

June y Gavin