Post 108: Killed with kindness in Montevideo y mas futbol

Fellow adventurers,

Montevideo has to be the most welcoming place we have been yet. While in Cartagena, Colombia we hung out with guy at our hostel from Montevideo, Uruguay named Pablo who invited us to stay with him when we visited his home city several months later.

We were greeted as old friends upon our arrival and then taken on a driving tour of the Uruguay's capital city. Pablo showed us the Rambla (a 14 mile long boardwalk), the old city, and several other sites of interest. For dinner we had chivitos (a local sandwich comprising of sliced beef, ham, lettuce, tomatoe, and topped with a friend egg) and some beers. Later after a few more drinks and catching up we met with Vicky, a friend of Pablo's from his home town of Punta del Este. Oddly enough she went to college near my home town in Central Florida. It really is a small world.

The following morning we awoke and went to the local football ground to try and procure tickets for a match to be held that night. Though unsuccessful, we had a chance to explore the clubhouse and stadium. The clubhouse (Cristal Palace) was home to what must have been hundreds of domestic and international trophies from the 100 plus years of history of the club. The walls were lined with old photos and giant player banners commemorating all the victories of years past. Gran Parque Central, the clubs home field was built in 1900, and was also used as the stadium for the first ever World Cup match back in 1930. Uruguay won the cup that year, and again in 1950. The Stadium has been home to Nacional Club de Futbol for over 110 years.

Later in the day, Vicky and I went down to the stadium again to try to buy tickets off someone. Oddly enough, selling tickets is illegal and is treated by those looking to sell as one would a drug transaction back home, with complete and utter discretion. We were unsuccessful until Pablo arrived and was able to get two tickets after a relentless search. He insisted I be able to see this game. Afterall, how many times will I be in Montevideo. His last purchase was done with a sense of utter irony to an American. The seller was smoking a joint within 15 feet of a police officer, but was far more concerned with how to hide the plastic wrapped game ticket in his hands for the transaction. Unfortunately we unable to get a fourth ticket. June volunteered to stay behind. I was able to attend, but had to sit alone. Pablo was generous enough to give me the ticket to his normal seat, on the lower grand stand along the middle of the pitch.

At first I went to the wrong gate, and waited through the long lines of stoned, drunk and crazed supporters who were chanting and randomly firing off flares and fireworks in any and all directions. As I arrived to the ticket taker, he pointed me to another gate, away from the fanaticos. I was lucky to be at the wrong gate, because they were checking ID's at the first, and I would have easily been turned away, or worse yet, had to try and explain why I was there with my very limited Spanish vocabulary.

I arrived inside right as the game was starting. In search of my seat, I was surrounded by deep red and white smoke from the smoke bombs that had been lit off to show the supporters love for their historic local club in their battle up the rankings for the continental title of South America, the Copa Libertadores, or Liberators Cup. Everyone was smoking marijuana and drinking heavily, all in the presence of small children and the elderly. Fireworks rang out and all cheered as Nacional took to the field to take on Club Libertad, from Paraguay.

(Match highlights)

The game was fast pace, and fun to watch. Nacional led until well into the 2nd half, eventually losing the game after a major push from the opposing side. I took major enjoyment in the crowd around me, and surprisingly managed to blend right out. Not for a second do I think anyone took me as an outsider. Of course, I stayed mum outside of ordering a Torta with a simple "Una, por favor". This was by far and away the best game I have attended yet on the continent. A packed stadium, tons of adoring fans and an atmosphere of pure football insanity. It couldn't get much better than this for me, and in such a historic setting.

After the game, we met back up with June at Pablos and were joined by another of his friends. From there we went to a local bar for a round of drinks, which our host were insistent on treating us to. We all laughed through our many poor attempts to speak Spanish and enunciate in the proper way. We even dabbled in tongue twisters, non of which I had any success with. The kindness and welcoming attitude of the Uruguaynos was unrivaled by any of the locals I have met in our 3 months down here.

We have the weekend in the city and plan to take our time and see a few local sites. Our next stop is the coast of Uruguay, before we head onto Igauzu and Brazil. It is hard to believe we have less than a month left on the journey. Our ever gracious host will be gone for the weekend but left us a set of keys to inhabit his apartment. I hope one day we get to repay him for his great kindness to us.

Gavin y June