Post 105: Buenos Aires pt. 1

Fellow adventurers,

Gavin and I have an apartment in San Telmo, one of the oldest neighborhoods of Buenos Aires, the Argentinian Capital and port city which has a name that translates in Spanish to 'fair winds.'  The neighborhood has many cobblestone streets lined with wrought iron lanterns, and well preserved 19th century architecture.  There's literary cafes, restaurants, an open market, boutiques and numerous fine antique shops.  Our first day in BA was spent lounging around, and planning for our week spent here.  We did make it out to purchase groceries at the local Mercado San Telmo, built in 1897 with characteristics of an Italian style.  We wondered around a bit in the massive market after buying produce, admiring the artistic qualities of the glass and the strong iron structure of the ceilings.

The following day we walked along the docklands in Puerto Madero to purchase our tickets for the ferry to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay. Along the way we saw the recently built Women's Bridge (Puente de la Mujer), an architectural wonder. It is a swing bridge, uniquely asymmetrical. We were advised to purchase them as soon as possible, as it is the height of the tourist season.  Afterwards, we began our self guided walking tour through the city center visiting historical sites and landmarks.  Our tour began in a lovely, small city square of Parque San Martin.  It is surrounded by french style buildings overlooking Torre Monumental, or Monumental Tower, erected in 1810 as a gift from the British.  The world famous Teatro Colon was our next stop along the way, an opera house erected in 1908, said to be one the top 5 best concert venues acoustically worldwide.  Unfortunately it was not open at the moment for a tour, and the performance season has not begun.  How I would have loved to see a ballet in such a majestic theater!

The walking kept on while our skin began to soak from the high humidity.  We passed the Obelisk, similar to the one in DC.  We crossed the worlds widest avenue a few times, the impressive Avenida 9 de Julio.  This city block wide avenue hosts 7 lanes in each direction, with parallel streets of 2 lanes on either side, totaling 16 lanes of traffic.  Then on to the Metropolitan Cathedral and Casa Rosada, or Pink House.  This baby pink house is the official executive mansion of Argentina.  Outside it, a protest was taking place for the Malvinas. Gavin and I were quite hungry, sweaty and exhausted by this point.  Although there was more to explore on our tour, we decided to call it a day and save it for the next.

The tour was concluded along the Avenida de Mayo the next day, lined with an eclectic mix of elegant buildings of the art noveau and neoclassical styles; as is the rest of the city, although the architecture in BA is often compared to what you'd see in Paris or Madrid.  Our long walk down it ended at the Congressional Plaza.  It was suggested to us to visit Cafe Tortino along the Avenida. This cafe opened in 1858 and is Argentina's oldest.  Although quite touristic, it was quite lovely to sit in and enjoy a coffee and churros.  Afterwords, we headed to the Mercado San Telmo once again to pick up steak and produce to make for dinner.

Today Gavin and I took the subway to the bohemian, trendy neighborhood of Palermo. The tree lined, cobblestone streets of this neighborhood are lined with various boutiques, art galleries, bars, cafes, sidewalk sales, and restaurants.  It's known as the Soho of BA, and if you've been to New York, you'd understand why.  We also enjoyed cooler temperatures as I roamed the boutiques and galleries, telling myself I need to return to Buenos Aires, even if it is only to shop.   Dinner out was at an affordable restaurant, enjoying cold glasses of Brahma beer and slices of some of the best pizza we've had in South America (which is saying a lot, considering pizza throughout SA has been very good).  Afterwords, we treated ourselves to gelato, to further enjoy the evening weather.

Tomorrow, we are touring the famous Recoleta Cemetery, and the neighborhood.  There apparently is an open air market as well on the weekend.  Thus far, I must say the fair winds city has been my favorite all throughout South America.  It has all the characteristics I appreciate in a city.  Good architecture, friendly people, good public transit, boutiques, electic restaurants, cafes,arts and culture.  It is someplace I could see myself living, and I look forward to the remainder of our time here.

June y Gavin