Monday, December 19, 2011

Post 86: Isla del Sol y La Paz day one

Fellow adventurers,


Gavin and I almost missed our boat from Copacabana to the Island of the Sun, having not changed the time on our clock.  Luckily, we realized this in just enough time to make it to the boat, as our hotel was on the waterfront.  The swells on the lake made boat ride a bit unsettling for us.  It was a rainy morning when we set off, much different than our last visit to Lake Titicaca from the Peruvian side.  However, we met some older, new age hippies on the boat, which made for some interesting conversation on the 2 hour ride.


Isla del Sol has approximately 800 families living on the island, whose main source of economic activity is fishing, farming and tourism.  The hills on the island contain agriculture terraces, much of like we see throughout Peru and Bolivia. There are no roads or vehicles, but there is electricity sourced from the mainland, with power lines stretching from island to island.  Eighty Inca ruins are on the island, dating as far back as the third millennium BCE.


Upon arriving, the sky had begun to clear and we could better look forward to our hike on the island.  Considering we missed breakfast at the hotel, we brought sandwiches and a few snacks to take along with us.  Our plan was to hike to lower end of the trail from the Northern part of the island to the Southern part. We were still acclimating to the elevation and our muscles were still a bit sore from our Colca Canyon hike.  We weren't too interested in seeing ruins, as we feel that many of the Inca ruins throughout Peru are very similar in appearance and history.  We had gotten our fill in of ruins on a previous visit to Peru, in 2008.  Gavin had still wanted to visit the Inca Table, which apparently was used for human sacrifices.  Unfortunately for us, we thought the many steps up you needed to take to the table was at the end of our hike in the southern part, but we were misinformed and later learned they were closer to where we began.


The hike was pleasant enough.  We walked along hills, some parts consisting of solid rock, slightly higher than the water.  We passed many farms, animals and some villages, with views of snow capped peaks in the distance.  The sun was strong but the temperature pleasant.  Although we had heard this was the best island of all the islands to visit, we have to disagree.  On our previous visit to Peru, we stayed on the island Amantani, which had no electricity or running water.  We stayed with an indigenous family whom spoke only the native language of Quechua.  Amantani was certainly a place of solitude, being so far from the mainland.  At night you could hear a pin drop, and view the milky way right above your head.  So while we did enjoy Isla del Sol, our experience on Amantani was much more personal.


Our ride back was on the roof of the boat to better take in the fresh air and scenery.  Upon making port in Cobacabana, we took a bus to highest capital in the world, La Paz.  There, we took a taxi to a hostel we knew of, only to realize it was not someplace we wanted to stay for more than one night.  The building was open, making the rooms quite cold.  Our double bed was being supported by a bed frame and multiple, flattened cardboard boxes underneath the mattress.  We sunk into the middle of the mattress overnight.  Gavin and I were happy to leave, and to move on to the comfortable hotel we're in now.  It's a little outside our budget, but most places we read reviews on within our budget in this city had stories of theft within rooms.  Considering we're here for a week, we wanted to be someplace comfortable and warm(this city gets chilly!), and did not want to take risks on having our valuables stolen.


Yesterday we took it easy.  We needed a day of rest, and to wash our clothes.  It also helped us acclimate a bit more.  Unfortunately, Gavin had some troubles with the bank and although he had made them aware he was traveling abroad, they had locked his card.  After 6 hours of much frustration, he was finally able to resolve the issue.

This city is probably the most chaotic, loud city I have visited.  Lot's of traffic and people, in total disregard to one another.  It is also South America's most impoverished, and you can see it on the street.  Today we plan on visiting the Witches Market, as well as booking a bicycle ride down the world's most dangerous road for tomorrow.  More on that later.

June y Gavin

more photos after the break below:


















3 comments:

Gabby said...

I'm surprised these islands, especially Amantani, are not designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. So beautiful, peaceful, and serene.

June, what is that flower you're holding in your hand? The leaf looks fuzzy, like cotton.

Gav, I hope I don't run into the same problems with BoA, such as in Germany. Also, no more falls - I told John today I was getting excited for the trip, and he replied back, "Yeah, if Gavin makes it." LOL. Be SO careful on Yungas Road. Its not the bicycling that freaks me out, its those drivers!

I hope you guys enjoy your Christmas in La Paz, despite it's poverty and noisiness. Maybe the chilly temperatures will make it feel more seasonable!

Oh and, I'd expect if anyone were to run into a few aged hippies, it would be in South America!

Feliz Navidad!

P.S. ~ The Andes are looking more spectacular as you venture further south. Makes me even more excited to see them, and I hope they are just as overwhelming in Chile and Argentina as they are in Bolivia. Although, the largest peaks may be in Patagonia. I wonder where the largest peaks of the Andes are?

doug daddio said...

Hey guys, is it absolutely necessary to cycle the "world's most dangerous road" tomorrow? Be sure your brake pads and cables are in good shape-not rusty and frayed and the tires aren't cracked or dry rotted; check that the handlebars are tight. Even so, won't you consider a road less traveled?

doug daddio said...

“Ordinary riches can be stolen, real riches cannot. In your soul are infinitely precious things that cannot be taken from you.”-Oscar Wilde