Post 100: Cherries of Bariloche & Route 40

Fellow adventurers,

Our last few days at the lovely site in the woods along Lake Nahuel Huapi were very enjoyable and relaxing for the both of us. It was certainly quite an interesting change in pace for us. I really enjoyed the complications that came along with camping without the proper supplies, and even reveled in some of the most difficult of moments we had.

Our second to last day was mainly spent away from camp, exploring more of the lake. After breakfast and exploring our options, we decided to take the local bus to Llao Llao (pronounced “Ciao Ciao” in the local dialect) and go on a nice hike. Llao Llao is on a peninsula between the main lake, and another lake named Moreno. Our original intent was to go on a hike through the northern end of the peninsula, but we became a little lost on the way and ended up on another by the name of Arryannes. This one took us through many very tall oak trees and dried bamboo tunnels past small paths that led to beaches with magnificent views of the surrounding mountains.

The end of the trail dead ended at a deeply forested road, with a sign presenting us only two options. “Llao Llao – 5 kilometers” was our only choice as the other was unrecognizable to us. Many attempts were made at hitchhiking, but unfortunately for us, most of the traffic was headed in the opposite direction. We entertained ourselves picking wild raspberries and cherries as we walked the entirety of the five clicks. June found great joy in the cherry trees she recognized from her adolescent years on her grandfathers farm. It took a little convincing to get me to try them, as I have never been fond of cherries previously, but I am glad I expanded my horizons.

On our last day in Bariloche, we extended our stay on the campground. In the morning I prepared our fire for breakfast, and throughout the day made sure it was burning bright. I even managed to save it through some light rain with a piece of corrugated metal to cover it from getting dampened. June discovered some more cherry trees in the mid afternoon, and we preoccupied ourselves with taking every piece of fruit they had to give, with the permission of the camp staff of course to use their wooden ladder. In all, I think we took nearly 10 pounds of beautiful fresh cherries. Some were given to our immediate neighbors, the camp staff, and anyone else who showed an interest in them.

We had our final camp side dinner of delicious grilled chicken, grilled veggies, and potatoes right before the rain started to set in upon the lake. It poured for most of the evening as a violent storm passed. There was a 5 AM bus we needed to take to meet with our tour bus which was departing at 6:45 for Perito Moreno. The evening storm made packing up our dirty, wet tent in the early, dark morning hours even more of a hassle. We awoke at four in the morning to get everything together before just barely catching the bus into Bariloche for our first leg of the long trip down the famous Route 40 to our final destination in El Calafate.

Everyone speaks very highly of this famous road, but we found it not much different than most we have traveled upon further to the north. The scenery remained dry and arid for most of the first day until we hit tiny town of Perito Moreno in the early evening. I suppose I have always imagined Patagonia to be completely forested and lush with green vegetation, but that is simply not the case after departing the surrounding areas of Bariloche. Our night in Perito Moreno was enjoyed in the company of two Canadian miners who treated us to some much needed beers and good conversation for the evening.

Day two of the ride was just as dull in its scenery, and even longer in distance and time. About half way through, our bus managed to break down. Luckily the problem was fixed within an hour, after a short tow from another passing bus.  We kept down the long, mostly unpaved road that lasted for hours, until finally at about 10:30 pm, we saw the silhouette of the famous jagged peaks of Mt. Fitz Roy in the distance, while the sun set behind them.

I write this to you now from El Chalten.. Tomorrow we continue on to El Calafate where we will hike a glacier the following day, and then on to Torres del Paine for a 5 day hike through the national park, and then onto the end of the world at Ushuaia. It may be some time before we have a chance to update again. I am really looking forward to the serenity of it all.

Ciao for now friends.

Gavin y June