Post 109: Vacation away from our vacation

Fellow adventurers,

Our weekend in Montevideo was pleasant and relaxing, aside from the intense heat.  We spent it exploring much of Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo’s old city.  We attempted to go in or tour many buildings, including the Teatro Solis and Palacio Salvo (once S.A’s tallest building) but being the weekend, surprisingly most everything is closed.  We had also wanted to go out in the evening to see some Carnaval festivities we heard were going on, but were worried about walking around at night even though Uruguay has a reputation as being one of the safest in S.A.  On Monday we were looking forward to escaping the city and traveling along the coast to take in some cooler breezes, so we headed to the bus station and set off.

As our bus approached La Pedrera, each campground we passed was filled to the max with tents.  They even lined the roadside. We learned after inquiring that most were full, and the only sites available were $50 dollars.  The reason for this was La Pedrera was hosting Carnaval festivities in the evening.  We decided to head out of town to look for someplace private we could set up, and ended up settling deep into some nearby woods of eucalyptus trees where the grass was tall and wet.

As the sun began to set, we headed back into town just as the vendors had finished setting up their grills and the parades of festive people, either dressed in various costumes, wearing masks or bodies painted, began to crowd in. The streets of sand were muddy and puddled from the scattered rains throughout the day.  We could not walk down it without being sprayed by silly string or white foam shot from aerosol cans that were being vended everywhere. Targets were indiscriminate though usually relegated for young woman. From the side of the street, kids threw water balloons and some people would randomly dump buckets of water on others. Luckily we made it through what was just the beginning of a chaotic night for many, and went over the beach where we sat for awhile.  It’s interesting to think some place so small and usually quiet turns into an absolute night of debauchery once a year, but it is Carnaval. Walking back, Gavin and I avoided the busiest of the crowded street by taking a side street. We ate a mediocre sausage sandwich and drank a beer while we watched the wild people party on the street before stumbling through the forest, in search of our tent.

We were rather glad we didn’t camp in town because their probably wouldn’t have been any sleeping, with the amount of noise and partying happening all throughout the night.  The following morning the streets were trashed and muddier than ever. People slept just about everywhere; in their cars, on cardboard boxes, or even on the side of the busy main road wrapped in a blanket. We were ready to leave and head for the quieter communities along the coast. After about 20 minutes of walking with our thumbs out on the only road that takes you North, we were picked up by a friendly, young Argentine; Gustavo. Our first attempt had proven successful and saved us 20+ miles of walking along the long road that stretched mostly across vast green acres of cow and horse pastures, sparsely shaded by scattered palms. The only road that connects you to the orange, sandy streets which lead into the many tiny, rural communities on the coast.

Gustavo dropped at the entrance of Cabo Polonia, a small hippy community of 72 inhabitants with no roads, no running water or electricity and where we had planned to camp one night. After learning there isn’t a campground, we decided to skip paying the 170 Pesos (about $8.50) for the ride in, and head further north. We caught a bus for about $4.00 that would take us to the beautiful coastline of Punto Del Diablo, where there’s plenty of campgrounds. We settled at a campground only about 10 minutes walk from the beach under pine trees and more screeching parrots before we explored the bohemian town with an eclectic mix of colorful cottages that gives it it’s rustic charm.

Wednesday was spent at the beach.  The waves were large, strong and constant which made for fun swimming but even better boogie boarding if I only had one. Then we shared a Caipirinha, the national drink of Brazil made with sugar cane rum, sugar and muddled lime served over ice.  It was delicious and refreshing, but more than one would have had me sleeping on the beach only to wake up looking like a lobster, so we drank it at the beach bar while people watching. Almost all of the woman on the beach, both young and old, wear bikini thongs or the like. While not accustomed to being surrounded to by so many practically bare bottoms, we weren’t sure how we particularly felt about seeing prepubescent girls as young as 10 walking around with their butts out. While socially acceptable here, it’s very taboo for us as North Americans to see, unless maybe you’re in Miami. Overall, I loved how lawless the beaches are here unlike the ones at home, at least in my home state of New Jersey. Everyone was harmonious, minding their own and enjoying themselves.  Traveling is beginning to make me feel just how little freedom we actually have in America.

As the sun began to lower, we took a walk on the sandy coastal trails that go over sand dunes and run alongside flattened boulders.  It led us to Playa Grande, an expansive, secluded beach (hence the name) which runs inland.  We also explored the wooded area behind where we will be camping the next few days beginning tomorrow.  The remainder of our time here will be spent camping, exploring Fortaleza Santa Teresa, and just going to the beach before heading back to Montevideo for one night. I hope the pleasant warm weather will hold out for our time here.  We can’t believe we only have 3 weeks left of our journey and we’re doing our best to save money in order to make it home. Our cash supply is running quite low. After Igauzu Falls next week, we’ll be on a journey through Brazil and Guyana not so much to see sights (unless they’re free), but to make our flight home.

June y Gavin

Post 108: Killed with kindness in Montevideo y mas futbol

Fellow adventurers,

Montevideo has to be the most welcoming place we have been yet. While in Cartagena, Colombia we hung out with guy at our hostel from Montevideo, Uruguay named Pablo who invited us to stay with him when we visited his home city several months later.

We were greeted as old friends upon our arrival and then taken on a driving tour of the Uruguay's capital city. Pablo showed us the Rambla (a 14 mile long boardwalk), the old city, and several other sites of interest. For dinner we had chivitos (a local sandwich comprising of sliced beef, ham, lettuce, tomatoe, and topped with a friend egg) and some beers. Later after a few more drinks and catching up we met with Vicky, a friend of Pablo's from his home town of Punta del Este. Oddly enough she went to college near my home town in Central Florida. It really is a small world.

The following morning we awoke and went to the local football ground to try and procure tickets for a match to be held that night. Though unsuccessful, we had a chance to explore the clubhouse and stadium. The clubhouse (Cristal Palace) was home to what must have been hundreds of domestic and international trophies from the 100 plus years of history of the club. The walls were lined with old photos and giant player banners commemorating all the victories of years past. Gran Parque Central, the clubs home field was built in 1900, and was also used as the stadium for the first ever World Cup match back in 1930. Uruguay won the cup that year, and again in 1950. The Stadium has been home to Nacional Club de Futbol for over 110 years.

Later in the day, Vicky and I went down to the stadium again to try to buy tickets off someone. Oddly enough, selling tickets is illegal and is treated by those looking to sell as one would a drug transaction back home, with complete and utter discretion. We were unsuccessful until Pablo arrived and was able to get two tickets after a relentless search. He insisted I be able to see this game. Afterall, how many times will I be in Montevideo. His last purchase was done with a sense of utter irony to an American. The seller was smoking a joint within 15 feet of a police officer, but was far more concerned with how to hide the plastic wrapped game ticket in his hands for the transaction. Unfortunately we unable to get a fourth ticket. June volunteered to stay behind. I was able to attend, but had to sit alone. Pablo was generous enough to give me the ticket to his normal seat, on the lower grand stand along the middle of the pitch.

At first I went to the wrong gate, and waited through the long lines of stoned, drunk and crazed supporters who were chanting and randomly firing off flares and fireworks in any and all directions. As I arrived to the ticket taker, he pointed me to another gate, away from the fanaticos. I was lucky to be at the wrong gate, because they were checking ID's at the first, and I would have easily been turned away, or worse yet, had to try and explain why I was there with my very limited Spanish vocabulary.

I arrived inside right as the game was starting. In search of my seat, I was surrounded by deep red and white smoke from the smoke bombs that had been lit off to show the supporters love for their historic local club in their battle up the rankings for the continental title of South America, the Copa Libertadores, or Liberators Cup. Everyone was smoking marijuana and drinking heavily, all in the presence of small children and the elderly. Fireworks rang out and all cheered as Nacional took to the field to take on Club Libertad, from Paraguay.

(Match highlights)

The game was fast pace, and fun to watch. Nacional led until well into the 2nd half, eventually losing the game after a major push from the opposing side. I took major enjoyment in the crowd around me, and surprisingly managed to blend right out. Not for a second do I think anyone took me as an outsider. Of course, I stayed mum outside of ordering a Torta with a simple "Una, por favor". This was by far and away the best game I have attended yet on the continent. A packed stadium, tons of adoring fans and an atmosphere of pure football insanity. It couldn't get much better than this for me, and in such a historic setting.

After the game, we met back up with June at Pablos and were joined by another of his friends. From there we went to a local bar for a round of drinks, which our host were insistent on treating us to. We all laughed through our many poor attempts to speak Spanish and enunciate in the proper way. We even dabbled in tongue twisters, non of which I had any success with. The kindness and welcoming attitude of the Uruguaynos was unrivaled by any of the locals I have met in our 3 months down here.

We have the weekend in the city and plan to take our time and see a few local sites. Our next stop is the coast of Uruguay, before we head onto Igauzu and Brazil. It is hard to believe we have less than a month left on the journey. Our ever gracious host will be gone for the weekend but left us a set of keys to inhabit his apartment. I hope one day we get to repay him for his great kindness to us.

Gavin y June

Post 107: Colonia del Sacramento

Fellow adventurers,

The trip across the Rio de la Plata was quick and forgetful. We did not even realize the boat had left until we saw the huge walls of ships parked in Beunos Aires port passing by us. Our Argentine pesos were traded upon arrival for Uruguayan ones when we crossed the river. Yet another set of numbers to exchange in my head for the next few weeks to come.

We eventually found a tourist office and inquired about camping. The only site to do so was 2.5 km out of town, and a good half hours walk away. I would become very familiar with this route over the next few days. It was located down a highway from the old port town of Colonia on the road to Montevideo. All roads in Uruguay, South America's second smallest nation behind Suriname, seem to lead to its capital city.

As has been done many times in the past few weeks, we set up camp and made plans to explore the area over the next few days that followed. Our site was located under a palm tree, within view of a practice sized football pitch. The campsite is on the training ground of one of Uruguay's many local football teams. The trees above had many screeching green parrots. We decided to go to the market and buy our food for dinner, but instead ended up spending the rest of the afternoon there to escape the intense heat. We enjoyed a movie (The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo) and much needed air conditioning until near dusk.

The next day we explored Colonia del Sacramento. The small city was one of the earliest European settlements in Uruguay, founded by the Portuguese in 1680. In its history it switched between Spanish and Portuguese control many times before the foundation of the Uruguayan nation.

We walked along the old city walls and streets, and through the many squares of this a-typical colonial town, who's grid and layout very similar to the many towns we had seen in the past few months. Of highlight was a lighthouse, built in the mid 1800s which we had the chance to climb for a modest $1.50 (30 UYUpesos). After a while, the heat and soaring humidity made us call it quits early. The search for shade was much more than we could handle after the very little sleep we had in the days prior.

My first impression of Uruguay is that it reminds me a lot of where I grew up. The intense heat and humidity, semi-tropical trees, and flat grassy terrain all made me think of my childhood years back home in Central Florida.

Next stop: Montevideo.

Gavin y June

Post 106: Buenos Aires pt. 2

'Fellow adventurers,

Yearning to explore the antique shops and boutiques around San Telmo, I set out yesterday leaving Gavin behind for a lackadaisical day to himself. The weather had only slightly cooled, and I wondered some streets I had not yet explored.  They led me to nearby park, where a cafe was hosting some tango, and I luckily caught the end of it.  There were some vendors selling mostly handicrafts, antiques and jewelry in the park as well, and it wasn't long before I was chatted up by a local jeweler, wishing to "accompany me to tango lessons, on my return to Buenos Aires".  Many boutiques and antique shops later, I found myself in the San Telmo mercado picking up ingredients to make dinner.  By this time the vendors recognized me, and happily greeted me as I walked by their stalls.

Today Gavin and I ventured out to La Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires first public cemetery set on 14 acres and founded in 1822.  It is like a city within itself, filled with mausoleums of many architectural styles for the dead, including Eva Peron and many other notable characters of Argentina's elite past.  The cemetery is also filled with old dirty cats who seem to take up residence full time there.

As we wondered, I stopped and noticed a unique tomb done in a neogothic style, unlike the rest.  On it was a large statue of a girl in a long gown with her hand resting on her dogs head next to her.  There was also a plaque, with what looked to be a poem in Italian.  I overheard the story of the tomb from a tour guide, and after further researched learned that she had died in 1970, at the age of 26, while honeymooning in Austria by an avalanche that had struck her hotel.  The poem translates to:

To my Daughter

Only I ask myself why
You left and left my heart destroyed
That wanted only you, why?
Why? Only destiny knows the reason, and I ask myself why?

Because we can’t be without you, why?
You were so beautiful that invidious nature destroyed you. Why?
I only ask myself why, if God exists, does he take away that which is His name.
Because He destroys us and leaves us to an eternity of sadness!

Why? I believe in fate and not in you. Why?
Because I only know that I always dream with you, why is that?
For all the love my heart feels for you.
Why? Why?

Your Papá

After some further research of tombs we visited, I learned that each one has it's own interesting story,  as well as some mysterious urban legends which can be easily read about here; which I'd suggest you should if you're into that sort of thing.

On Sundays, San Telmo has a outdoor street market.  We didn't anticipate the sheer scale of it.  Man blocks are lined with people selling antiques (of course!) artwork, handicrafts, goods, baked goods, clothes etc, etc.  There's also live tango, which we thoroughly enjoyed watching the couples sensually move in synchronization with one another to the sound of an accordion and stringed instruments.  I couldn't help but stop to listen to musicians playing tango music all the while a young porteno let his deep, strong voice empower the him with it.  I wish there was a way to describe the feeling you get from the sounds and the sight.  Romantic, sensual, perhaps envious.  The want to learn to the tango the that seeps into the streets, and surround yourself with it.  When would the novelty of it be lost, I wonder?

With little anticipation, we leave the fair winds city tomorrow for an early 5 hour boat ride across el rio del la plata, or the river plate, to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay.  We will be camping there for two days.  Although I'm sure Colonia will be delightful, I was really beginning to feel comfortable in our little apartment.  It's nice to take care as if a place were your own home, and it never crossed my mind I'd slightly miss cleaning.  I also have gotten quite acquainted with the neighborhood.  Oh Buenos Aires, how you call my name.

June y Gavin

Post 105: Buenos Aires pt. 1

Fellow adventurers,

Gavin and I have an apartment in San Telmo, one of the oldest neighborhoods of Buenos Aires, the Argentinian Capital and port city which has a name that translates in Spanish to 'fair winds.'  The neighborhood has many cobblestone streets lined with wrought iron lanterns, and well preserved 19th century architecture.  There's literary cafes, restaurants, an open market, boutiques and numerous fine antique shops.  Our first day in BA was spent lounging around, and planning for our week spent here.  We did make it out to purchase groceries at the local Mercado San Telmo, built in 1897 with characteristics of an Italian style.  We wondered around a bit in the massive market after buying produce, admiring the artistic qualities of the glass and the strong iron structure of the ceilings.

The following day we walked along the docklands in Puerto Madero to purchase our tickets for the ferry to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay. Along the way we saw the recently built Women's Bridge (Puente de la Mujer), an architectural wonder. It is a swing bridge, uniquely asymmetrical. We were advised to purchase them as soon as possible, as it is the height of the tourist season.  Afterwards, we began our self guided walking tour through the city center visiting historical sites and landmarks.  Our tour began in a lovely, small city square of Parque San Martin.  It is surrounded by french style buildings overlooking Torre Monumental, or Monumental Tower, erected in 1810 as a gift from the British.  The world famous Teatro Colon was our next stop along the way, an opera house erected in 1908, said to be one the top 5 best concert venues acoustically worldwide.  Unfortunately it was not open at the moment for a tour, and the performance season has not begun.  How I would have loved to see a ballet in such a majestic theater!

The walking kept on while our skin began to soak from the high humidity.  We passed the Obelisk, similar to the one in DC.  We crossed the worlds widest avenue a few times, the impressive Avenida 9 de Julio.  This city block wide avenue hosts 7 lanes in each direction, with parallel streets of 2 lanes on either side, totaling 16 lanes of traffic.  Then on to the Metropolitan Cathedral and Casa Rosada, or Pink House.  This baby pink house is the official executive mansion of Argentina.  Outside it, a protest was taking place for the Malvinas. Gavin and I were quite hungry, sweaty and exhausted by this point.  Although there was more to explore on our tour, we decided to call it a day and save it for the next.

The tour was concluded along the Avenida de Mayo the next day, lined with an eclectic mix of elegant buildings of the art noveau and neoclassical styles; as is the rest of the city, although the architecture in BA is often compared to what you'd see in Paris or Madrid.  Our long walk down it ended at the Congressional Plaza.  It was suggested to us to visit Cafe Tortino along the Avenida. This cafe opened in 1858 and is Argentina's oldest.  Although quite touristic, it was quite lovely to sit in and enjoy a coffee and churros.  Afterwords, we headed to the Mercado San Telmo once again to pick up steak and produce to make for dinner.

Today Gavin and I took the subway to the bohemian, trendy neighborhood of Palermo. The tree lined, cobblestone streets of this neighborhood are lined with various boutiques, art galleries, bars, cafes, sidewalk sales, and restaurants.  It's known as the Soho of BA, and if you've been to New York, you'd understand why.  We also enjoyed cooler temperatures as I roamed the boutiques and galleries, telling myself I need to return to Buenos Aires, even if it is only to shop.   Dinner out was at an affordable restaurant, enjoying cold glasses of Brahma beer and slices of some of the best pizza we've had in South America (which is saying a lot, considering pizza throughout SA has been very good).  Afterwords, we treated ourselves to gelato, to further enjoy the evening weather.

Tomorrow, we are touring the famous Recoleta Cemetery, and the neighborhood.  There apparently is an open air market as well on the weekend.  Thus far, I must say the fair winds city has been my favorite all throughout South America.  It has all the characteristics I appreciate in a city.  Good architecture, friendly people, good public transit, boutiques, electic restaurants, cafes,arts and culture.  It is someplace I could see myself living, and I look forward to the remainder of our time here.

June y Gavin